Into The Unknown

Surfing not only turns back time; it makes time stop entirely.

I love the ocean, and it seems like every surfer has some kind of special relationship to it. Who wouldn’t? Surfing has to be the most exhilarating experience I know. Your body is gliding across the ocean and it feels like there is an adrenaline machine pumping through your veins encouraging you to perform radical maneuvers.

I started surfing in October 2002 at the pounding breaks of Bagasbas Beach, Daet, Camarines Norte. Some friends of mine invited me to go  and try it out. We went on a 12-hour bus ride to get to the place. As I could remember clearly, I really hated the trip as it gave my back a really hard time. But once we got there, I immediately forgot about the back pain and the long trip.

Daet has a really relaxed atmosphere where the locals had no hostility in the water. Surfing is one of the main activities there and a lot of the businesses in the town have surfing incorporated into their workplace. Their home break has constantly moving peaks and changes with every new swell. It’s very rare for the beach to go totally flat or for the waves to be totally smooth. The only thing that really prevents the surfers from surfing is the strong current that the beach sometimes gets.

My first wave hooked me forever, like a fish...

I went there with zero knowledge about the sport. What gave me the courage to charge the waves is the confidence of being a swimmer. My friends, being so excited to surf (a natural effect of the sport), seemed to have totally forgotten about my ignorance in surfing. I was forced to stay by the shore and watch as they paddle out and ride the waves. Good thing there were other surfers there who were kind enough to show me the ropes. I made new friends and up to this day, I surf with them whenever the surf is up.

Catching waves was easy for me as I could paddle quite well. It’s the popping up from the board and maintaining my balance that took quite a while to master. So I just kept on trying. I tried and tried until finally the moment came. I’m up and riding the wave—the rushing water, the humming in my ears, a moment of focus that somehow slows time. I was feeling the wax under my toes, my hand was trailing the face, and my body tensing and unfurling as the world spins in time with me. Ah, perfection! That moment will last a lifetime.

Surf trips are about more than surf. Sure, we all take to the road, sky and seas with dreams of finding the perfect wave but when we leave with an open mind and heart, we always come back with more. Who knows what you’ll find when you paddle out? Oh, the anticipation, the delicious promise of the unknown. It’s all in the journey.

Riding waves is just the beginning. Surfing opens the doors to a bunch of fantastic adventures and experiences. It’s these feelings, sights, smells, sounds, and the people you meet that make every part of surfing worth celebrating.

SURF'S UP!